Nethod of making shoes.



W. J. MAMSAQMND. METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICATION FILED NGV. 28, 1913.

4 SHEETS-SHEBT 2,

W* J. MAGFARLAND.

METHOD 0F MAKNG SHOES.

MPMGAHON MLB@ Nov. 2s, 191s.

atented uns 30., MWL

W. J. MAGFARLAND.

MBTHUD oF MAKNG SHOES.

APPLICATION FILBDOV, 28, 19l3,

Patented June 30, 3.9M.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

as obtained by the scale 101. This inner solevis provided with a. rib 22 shown in full lines in Fig., 3, inv dotted lines in Fig. 7 and in section in 4,' 5, and 9. The rib 22 eX- tends from a point 23 in advance of the shank'on the inner side around the toe to the oint 24 where theshank connects with the iieel seat. It will be observed the inner side'of the shank thereof is provided with no rib 22.

During the construction of the shoe the inner sole 21 isplaced on the bottom of the last 14 and the forward portion is tacked to the fore part of the last. The heel portion is then thrown over into the position shown in ydotted lines which will cause the inner side or" the shank to be sprung, and a fullness created which is Worked down into the hollow of the shank of the last, thereby creatf ing a highl arch support at the shank and on the inner side thereof. To facilitate this springing of the inner sole the outer face thereof is chanifered oit' at. the shank from the channel 25 to the inner *edge 2G Where the material is almost a feather edge as 1nv dicated in Fig. 9. The upper is then placed in position on the last and drawn over the edge of the inner sole as indicated in Figs.

preferably securing 3, 4, and 5, and then the various parts of the extension 17 are drawn over ythe shank and tacked to the last in Contact with the outer face of the inside sole. The central part .of the extension 17 is drawn direct and the outer parts ure drawn in opposite directions toward the heel and toe as indicated in Fig. 3. Then the extension 17 has been secured in this manner the strip 15 will vextend out wardly along the inside of the shank as shown in Fig. 4. A welt 27 is then placed in position on Athe last extending from the `front of the strip 15 around the toe tothe heel seat lat 24- and is secured by stitches -to ythe upper 10 and to the rib 22 of the inner sole 21, the saine stitches that secure ythe welt 27 to the .rib 22 along the outside of the shank tension 17 to the sald rib `22,.:111 as shown in F igs. 3 and l of the drawings, although it is obvious that the edge 2O may be secured yindependently to the inner sole 21 ifdesired.

The heel portion of the upper lOristacked to the inner sole `in the usual manner-.as indicated at 28 in Fig. 3. 'lfhe Welt V27 and vedges of the-upper 10 havingbeen beaten down and trimmed, a thickness of. canvas `25) the shoe is then ready for the application o't the outer sole 30 thereto, it being observedv the edgev 20 of the ex.

that the inner ena' of the wea 271s in c o'ntinuation of the end of the strip 1&3l and ma.

or may not be glued thereto as desired. l Pre erably the abutting ends of the Welt/27 and 15 are chamfered oi and glued ltpgether strip1 as s own at 150 in Fig. 1. The outer sole 30 l is eut in vthe forrnrshown inFig. 8, with the heel part at one side of the position it 'is i'nf tended to assume in the shoe, this distance.

corresponding to the depth oi the hollow of the lastA as obtained bythe scale 102.' The fore part 311'is tacked to the last in'proper" position and then the heel portion is moved oyer into the position shown in dottedplines' and is tacked to the last, this forcing of .the h eel portion laterally relatively to the fore part 31 causing a fullness to be, formed on the inner side of the shank at 33 Whieh'is worked down into the hollow of the I astand i' forms a high arched support.' The' i851 face of the outside is chamfered oi or thinned at the inside of the shank to acili;y 57

tate the buckling thereof, all as shown at the right of Fig. 1G. The partially completed g shoe is then taken to a sewing machine and the outer sole 30 is secured to the welt 27 and the strip 15. The corner 141 of the heel seat i of the lastis curved upwardly as Aindicated in Fig. 12 and the heel of the Shoe is built up at this point .in order to throw the weight ont-o the outside edge of the shoe. v 'I During the manufacture `of the shoe the counter stitl'ener' 3 4 is inserted, this stiiener being of peculiar construction to adapt it to the shoe herein described. It lwill observed by reference to Figs. 1 and 2 that while the outer part offthe' stiiiener extends a considerable dista-nce beyond the' vfront of the heel as at 35, the inner side only extends to the front of the. heel as at 36, thereby leaving' the vinside of the shank perfectl free to bend either laterally vorvertically. t "will be observed .that in this `construction there is no connection on the inside of theA shank between the inner soleand the outer ,11e sole, the llatter at this point being secured only to the vstrip 15 which in ,turn isfastened dure to lthe .peculiar shape of 'its` pattern which .fullness is drawn in under ,the'areh in the instephy moans ot the extension 17 and secured ifnproper position totheoppo-A of the foot 1s created `in thenatureof a site side of the lshoe, asupport .forthearch baudzylge which .while yielding' sust-ainsthe arch of the ,foot and preventsit breaking down. vThe arch ofthe t'ootlsy further supported b v the raised portion on 'the inside of Si)A www er Soie y mei' l0 and tha movmens flug shoe locked u sho bank whch 'Limes 'thrown heel and im@ inner @kwik sms: y uppe by machine inner wel @mmf sk; im form :cha-.s on tha The sho/e when cmpcated nmy be worn with# y efmen to Fig; El of @the drawings,

I the wegar" of he bady from the, haai Meng s; `.1 :md than ncros'ss the ba' of the. the big toe. At th@ same ihn@ s, very l 1 "h arch is; @related in 'Fue compleim 55h01), the Simp 'i5 be nalwQ-r l suppm't- IL'Z and veni'ng; flat fmt and 1n fact assisting in 3fm kan web@ ICS-then" nwl'ma @my smesmrn 

